From Kebaya to Koteka: Being Indonesian
 Identity is not just about what you wear (or don't wear), but a whole set of values, customs and perspectives about how you see yourself.
A columnist in the daily Jakarta Post wrote recently that the reason so many women now wear a jilbab (headscarf) is to stave off the onslaught of Western culture: Hollywood movies and soapies, fast-food franchises, fashion, consumptivism, the irresistible penetration of the internet and so on. He saw "Muslim" gear as a symbol of this resistance, a show of support for a set of values that counters the aggressive cultural assault of the West.
But while Indonesian women wear the jilbab in a distinctly South-East Asian style, with bright colors and sparkling decoration, it is still essentially Arab costume. What a pity, I thought, that we oscillate between Western and Arabic cultures, when we have such a wealth of Indonesian ‘identities' to choose from – in fact, more than three hundred ethnic cultures according to many anthropologists.
In the 1990s, I was invited to the Presidential Palace for the opening of a conference. The invitation gave the dress code as ‘national costume' – kebaya (a traditional blouse worn with a batik sarong).
I am a Sundanese woman, from West Java and, like the Javanese, our traditional costume is also the kebaya. But I resisted wearing it. Back then, I associated it with oppression, because Soeharto's New Order government imposed it as national costume, part of their conformist, Javanised, centralized and controlling rule. Instead I chose an Irianese (Papuan) outfit – a grass skirt and nothing else – as a tribute to our most far-flung and neglected province.
But on reflection, I thought that might just be a tad counterproductive, so instead I wore a Dayak outfit from Kalimantan: colorful, with glass beads and feathers – and, yes, a top. It drew attention, but not like if I had worn the outfit from Irian!
On April 22 last year, a–Bhinneka Tunggal Ika (Unity in Diversity) cultural parade was held along the main streets of Jakarta protesting the Anti-Pornography Bill, which would have required Indonesians to cover-up in public, as if in the Middle East. The marchers saw it as another attempt to impose uniformity a la New Order. The parade was truly a sight to behold, with artists, activists and actors wearing costumes from all over Indonesia: Aceh, Bali, Betawi, Batak, Badui, Chinese, Javanese, Nusa Tenggara, and yes, even Papua. From kebaya to koteka (penis sheaths) – it was all there! Viva Reformasi!
Of course, identity is not just about what you wear (or don't wear), but a whole set of values, customs and perspectives about how you see yourself. And it is something that everyone has a right to. This is what regional autonomy should also mean: more than just administrative, political and economic rights.
It is high time that we truly respected the spirit of Bhinneka Tunggal Ika, as our founding fathers intended it. It is our right, our identity, our beauty, our heritage, our wealth, our strength, and it is what makes Indonesia truly unique in the world.
Julia Suryakusuma is the author of Sex, Power and Nation (Metafor, 2004). She can be contacted at jsuryakusuma[at]mac.com
Source: www.virtualtourist.com
(Posted : 12/4/2007 1:31:32 AM) |
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